Before delving into the intricacies of furniture photography, I think it’s important to emphasize the value of simplicity, especially in the early stages. By taking a simple approach, you can focus on conveying a compelling story through your images. With simplicity as your foundation, you can gradually incorporate complexity into your technique, thus highlighting the unique aspects of your work.
equipment
While it can be tempting to build up a collection of photography gear, such as cameras, lenses, and lighting, I’ve found that the most significant progress is often made by starting with just one camera and one lens. Let’s start with the camera itself. While smartphones offer capable cameras, I prefer a dedicated camera that gives me creative control over aperture, allowing me to manage depth of field and control exposure. Depth of field plays an important role in determining what is in focus and what is blurry. For example, with a wider aperture like f/2.8, the depth of field narrows, resulting in selective focus where only specific elements appear sharp. Conversely, a smaller aperture like f/22 expands the depth of field, bringing more elements into focus. In my busy studio, I often choose a wide aperture and a narrow depth of field to highlight the details in my work. However, when I’m aiming to capture a broader narrative or include more elements, I choose a narrower aperture to ensure I capture more detail.
Moving on to lens choice, while a zoom lens is an option, I prefer a fixed lens. Fixed lenses often offer wider apertures at a lower cost and encourage me to explore creative composition options. This is where your specific preferences or needs regarding lens choice and composition intersect. In my small workshop, where space is limited, I chose a wider lens to capture entire pieces of furniture in the frame. However, if you have the luxury of a larger workshop or studio space, you may find that a longer focal length works well. Longer focal lengths provide a more compact image, simplifying composition by isolating the furniture from its surroundings.
light
While artificial lighting certainly has its benefits, I’ve found that understanding the properties of natural light provides a good foundation for good photography. Here again, I prefer to keep it simple and consistent. As portrait photographers of the past knew, a north-facing window (south facing if you’re in the southern hemisphere) provides consistent, repeatable results regardless of most weather conditions. By lighting furniture from one side (oblique light), you can reveal textures and layers within your work, such as plush swallowtails, open grain, or smooth finishes. This works by casting shadows within the piece and emphasizing texture. By simply moving the piece or the perspective you’re shooting from, you can choose front lighting. Front lighting will provide even lighting, reducing shadows and creating a softer feel to your furniture. This was a favorite lighting among early portrait photographers.
to express
While it’s always good to experiment, keeping your composition simple is always a smart choice to begin with. Start with the rule of thirds: divide your frame into thirds, and place your furniture or key pieces of furniture within these intersections. Keep it simple. Remove distracting elements from the frame, either through the composition itself or by changing your aperture to emphasize certain aspects of your furniture. In a small shop like mine, using a large aperture (shallow depth of field) is crucial to removing distracting elements from the frame or deemphasizing them.
summary
In short, simplicity is key. Master the basics, then venture out and experiment, use new equipment, use diverse lighting, and use creative composition to highlight unique aspects.
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