This step-by-step tutorial will take you through designing a basement bar made with wall cabinets as a base.
I’m so excited to share this DIY bar project with you! I’ve had this on my mind for years, and finally finished it recently. There’s even a secret door. 😉
I knew I wanted to use that space in the corner against the wall, so this would need a 24″ wide cabinet (because the existing base cabinets are 24″ deep).
The final plan I decided on was three cabinets – two 24″ and one 21″ cabinet. In hindsight, we could have done three 24-inchers, but I didn’t want the entrance to this space to be too narrow.
Be sure to consider the countertop and/or any decorative end pieces that will add a little length to the end of the bar as well.
2. Locate the cabinets for your bar.
When deciding on your base cabinets for this project, you’ll need to decide whether you want a counter height bar (like an island), or a traditional bar height top.
Counter height usually ranges from 34 to 36 inches and bar height is about 40 to 42 inches.
We wanted our bar to be higher for the bar stools, so I needed to either build or purchase bases at that height. I knew this design was going to be a lot of work, so I took the slightly easier route and ordered the cabinets.
The problem is that base cabinets only come in a few heights, and store-bought versions are usually 34.5 inches tall. So, I picked out all my extras and bookcases…the upper cabinets!
The wall cabinets aren’t as deep as the base cabinets (only 12 inches front to back), but that would be enough for our needs.
3. Install your cabinets on the floor.
When installing upper cabinets on the floor, you will first need a base to raise them slightly off the floor, to create a toe-off. This also makes the wall cabinets look less…Wall Cabinets.
I do this by building a wooden base to the height I need:
I use this method for my bookcases as well. You can either install them at the bottom of wall cabinets or build a long base that can be attached to the floor and/or walls, then install the cabinets on top.
For this part, we used 2x4s and had help nailing the base to the cement floor in the basement. You need a powder hammer tool to set the wood into the cement, so I had the professionals do it.
After the base was secured, I was able to attach the cabinets to it using screws:
I marked where the 2x4s would go on the bottom and screwed them through the bottom of the cabinets to connect the cabinets.
I ended up changing the spacing a bit during installation, so the end cabinet ended up hanging slightly above the 2x4s. I knew I’d cover that anyway:
Next, we extended the floor a few feet to meet a nearby doorway. It looked so much better and made this room look so much bigger:
4. Add trim and panels.
You may have noticed that the end cabinet (closest to the wall) is installed in the opposite direction to the other cabinet.
I like to take advantage of empty space if I can. I hate wasting potential storage space and knew I could make this look cohesive and create a “secret” door in the process.
My first step was to cover the backs of the other two cabinets (the ones facing the kitchenette) with thin plywood:
I took these boards all the way up to the floor and up to the end of the bar as well.
When I installed the cabinets, I positioned the cabinet closest to the wall forward 1/4 inch so that it was flush with the plywood on the rest of the strip.
Flat screws work best for this, as they can be driven into the wood and then filled:
I filled all the screw heads with my favorite wood filler and then between the boards as well, so it looked like one big board. (I used some scrap; otherwise, you can cut one piece to the size you need.) Be sure to let the filler dry completely and then give it a light sanding.
After it was dry and smooth I started painting. I color matched the cabinets at Sherwin-Williams by taking a door to the store.
Because I wanted to match the ultra-smooth finish of the store-bought cabinets, I did a good sanding after each coat of paint:
I also did more layers than usual to fill in that texture on the plywood.
Next, I installed panels around the entire peninsula. Since the plywood came to the ground, I screwed it on top. I used these 1″ x 6″ boards as a base:
After everything was painted, it was time to figure out how to make the existing cabinet door look seamless with the rest of the bar front.
To do this, I grabbed some MDF boards the same size as the pieces around the front of the cabinet (2.5 inches wide). I created the look of two additional cabinet doors by adding these panels…they worked beautifully!:
You have to really get close to know where the real closet door is! I love him.
I’m very happy with how this secret door turned out. It’s a fun little addition:
Next, it’s time to figure out the countertops! I cut and installed butcher block for the rest of this kitchen, but I wanted something different for the island.
I went into a stone warehouse with a specific look in mind, and I couldn’t believe it when I found exactly what I had in mind!
I loved this black granite with gold and white veining throughout:
This particular stone is called Orinoco granite.
I really wanted a waterfall look, where the countertop continues on the side of the finished cabinet. To save a little money, they created this look by cutting the granite so that the top extends like a regular counter, and the piece on the side was cut so that the granite continues to move smoothly:
This was easier than the elaborate cutting required for a traditional waterfall counter. It turned out beautiful!
5. Finish the final details.
I finished off the bar by adding some long brass handles to the cabinets on the side of the kitchen:
