STL328: Incomplete resolution

How do you create pointed edges?

From Brad:

In STL322, while discussing edges, you mentioned pointy edges, which is something I had never thought of before. Can you explain how you create these things? Are there different approaches, and if so, what approach would you follow when creating it?

Curved edges made easy

The saw sled creates sides, and a little sanding gets the job done

Router for custom edges

For a recent office project, I wanted a beveled edge on the writing surface. Since the desktop was gently curved at each end, I couldn’t create a beveled edge on…

How accurately should we aim?

From Scott:

Hi Ben (and Mike and Vic),

Listening to the STL262, I was reminded of a lesson I learned when I was squaring a new sliding compound miter saw. Although it was not a Festool saw, I was using the Festool instructions, which recommended a version of the five-cut method. Ultimately, it was observed that the method is able to detect error outside the tool tolerances.

This was a lightbulb moment for me. Flexible castings. Bearings have a play. It all adds up. When these variances are expressed in +/- terms, I can expect that if I measure the same thing over and over again, I can expect to get a variety of results within that range, and those results will be random and very frustrating if I try to force them out.

With the quality of measuring tools we have available, the question may not be how precise we need to be; It’s like how accurate can we be? Are we aiming for a standard that is not only unnecessary but actually not possible?

Another scenario: I consider 12 inches. The Starrett combo box is the go-to tool in my shop for most things. It has a stated accuracy of +/-.002 inches along the blade. If my tool is +.002 and I use it to check the cross section of the square, when I don’t see any light, my “perfect” cut is +.002 inches outside the square. If you measured the angle at the other end of the cut, it would be -.004 inches. That’s a lot of photons! And according to Mike’s note about placing the English on the cross sled when cutting, a .001 inch or .002 inch discrepancy could be putting your left foot forward instead of your right foot. And according to Vic’s observation, if my tool is +.002 because I tightened the locking bolt with a little bit of sawdust between the stock and the ruler, the next time I set the square it won’t be the same. But this sled was perfect the last time I used it!

It was a big lesson for me to know that my tools and the things I use to measure them have limits to accuracy. I still use precision tools like the dial indicator when I create some of the tools and textures, but I try to be realistic about what they can tell me. The maximum accuracy I can achieve is not perfect, but it is sufficient. If I try to be perfect, I’ve created a new hobby for myself. I don’t know exactly what to call it, but it probably has more in common with statistics than carpentry.

Triangle determination system

There is no education system more efficient than the Triangle

Sum square correction

If your combo box isn’t as accurate as you’d like, don’t buy a new one. It’s relatively easy to solve!

What is the best way to be precise with a saw?

From Dave:

I will be making some additions to my home later this year, which will include making a series of square and/or parallel cuts on paper goods. I don’t have a table saw (due to a historical injury to my father-in-law, my wife forbade it), but I do have a hacksaw, and I’ll use it to cut plywood.

I made a cabinet for my shop last year, and made the frame by cutting a drawn line from a square to cut it out. Although this method got me close to square, I ended up having to clamp the pieces together and plan them using a hand plane to make them all square. There has to be a better way to get to the arena.

What is the recommended way to maintain the track box? But I have a few other related questions. When do you choose to use parallel guides versus square path? Would a speed square or attempt square be appropriate for a relatively small project like mine?

I looked into several different options, including grabbing a speed square, trying to place a square on the non-cut side of the track, or purchasing one of a variety of custom chainsaw squares or parallel guides; However, my research was inconclusive.

I realize you don’t know exactly how big my projects are, so, in other words, if you consider the “grab a square next to the track” method sufficient for a small number of pieces, what would you tip? Point to get one of the attachable boxes or guides?

I realize this question is very long, so feel free to edit it as needed.

Shop for machines for woodworkers who use hand tools

Simple woodworker Vic Tissolin considers his shop’s machines his “apprentices.” He depends on them to make his life easier.

How to make a cross table with a chainsaw

Ben Strano shows how to build a table that will make the track saw your go-to tool for cutting cross-section panels that are too large for your table saw.

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staff answers reader questions on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking’s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to [email protected] For consideration in regular broadcast! Our continued existence depends on listener support. So, if you enjoyed the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe a nice review on our site iTunes page. Join us on our Discord server here.