Travel Guide to Bodø and Lofoten, Northern Norway

I loved it so much, that I thought I’d share my experience here in case you ever want to visit this amazing part of Scandinavia.

Let’s start with Budo.

Bodo, Norway

Located on the east coast of Norway, Bodø has a population of 55,000 and is a jumping-off point for those looking to explore the Arctic Circle. While the town is often considered a base camp, those who choose to stay a while and use it as a base to explore the stunning surroundings will be truly rewarded! Bodø is nestled between the Saltfjellet mountain range and the Norwegian Sea to the east, and there is plenty of wilderness to explore!

Best time of year to visit: If you’re looking for hiking, June to mid-September is your best bet as much of the snow has melted and the meadows are ablaze with wildflowers swaying under the midnight sun. However, if you’re looking for the Northern Lights and snowy adventures, October to April is your go-to (note that the sun barely rises above the horizon at this time of year, so you’ll need to pack warm clothing!)

Getting there: Bodø has a small local airport with a single luggage carousel, making it quick and easy to get around. You can fly from Trondheim or Oslo – and be sure to book a window seat for the amazing views! You can also get there by train or car (the coastline between Trondheim and Bodø is one of the most stunning in the world – a place I dream of sailing one day!).

Accommodation: I stayed at the hotel.The recently opened WOOD Hotel (stay tuned, I’m really grateful for it!) is located just outside the city centre, high up in Rønvikfjellet with stunning views of the city, mountains and sea. It also has a great rooftop spa for total relaxation!

Bodo city center

Eating out: I often get asked if Norway is expensive – and it can be – but there are also budget-friendly ways to travel. For example, due to the ‘right to roam’ you can pitch a tent almost anywhere, and I also recommend self-catering where possible. However, you can’t visit Bodø without tasting coffee, fresh cinnamon buns from Berbusmel and eating Møsbrømlefse (a local delicacy)!

Explore the surroundings of Bodo

I consider myself to be very fit but I am a bit afraid of steep climbs (not that I am dissuaded as you will see from some of the photos in this post!). We chose “easy to moderate” trails of varying lengths. A word of warning, if a Norwegian tells you a trail will take 2 hours, they are talking about “Norwegian time” and you may need to double that – these guys are fit and used to navigating these trails even in the dark of a snowy winter! You have been warned!

Many of the routes are unmarked so it’s always best to download the Norgeskart and UTNO apps. Always take precautions, pack appropriate clothing (weather can change in seconds), tell someone where you’re going and when you expect to return and take plenty of food and water. If in doubt, sign up for a guided tour.

The beauty of visiting in June and July is that it never gets dark so you won’t be in a rush!

Having said that, the best thing about the trails around Bodø is that there is something to suit everyone and you don’t need to go far to be rewarded with the most amazing views – often in solitude!

Bodo Ocean

Ofika and Hovdsundet

One of the highlights of my trip was the hike to the Hovdsund lookout point. The moderate 3-4 hour trail is 8km long and takes you through farmland, past the secluded chalky white sands of Uveka Beach and along the top of a cliff. Bring a picnic to enjoy the views of the turquoise sea as white-tailed eagles soar overhead. Despite its popularity, we only met four other people the entire day, making it incredibly quiet.

Migueli

Not far from Hovedsund you’ll find the lovely Mjelle, the start of the coastal path that takes you through the national park. The relatively flat, easy 2.5km trail takes about an hour – although you’ll want to stop and take a dip in the crystal clear waters at the ‘Red Beach’! It’s a popular spot for lovers to gaze at the midnight sun.

Keyservarden

The moderate Keiservarden Trail is one of the most popular hiking trails in Bodø, measuring 5.5 km and taking 2.5 hours round trip. The strenuous hiking trail starts from the WOOD Hotel and takes you past lakes and up stone-carved mountain steps to the magnificent panoramic view at the summit. This photo was taken at 10pm!

Saltfjallet Mountains

The mountain range surrounding Bodø is full of some really great trails! Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to visit them, but if you have the time and want to explore the secluded hills, talk to the locals and ask for advice on the best hiking trails for your abilities. There are also guides if you’re not sure how to navigate them yourself.

Lofoten Islands

It has always been a dream of mine to visit the Lofoten Islands – the archipelago in the Norwegian Sea, known for its stunning landscapes, snow-capped peaks, cascading waterfalls and deep blue fjords.

How to get there: Lofoten is located in the Atlantic Ocean, west of Bodø. There is a direct car ferry service from Bodø that takes about 4 hours (they get incredibly booked up in high season, so book your place in advance). There is also a local airport in Lofoten.

How to get around: Lofoten is made up of many islands and is 1,227 square kilometres (474 ​​square miles), so it’s pretty big! You can get around by local bus, or even by bike (if you’re feeling adventurous!). We took our rental car with us from the mainland so we could see as much of the archipelago as possible.

Where to stay: Lofoten Planet Resort was the perfect base, close to the ferry port and home to some of the most exciting excursions. The owner, Agata – a climber herself, was incredibly knowledgeable and happy to advise us on where to go. We also had access to a kitchen – perfect for preparing picnics and evening meals. The other guests, from all over the world, were friendly and eager to share their experiences – making it a real home away from home!

We were staying near the bakery in Å – famous for serving the best cinnamon buns in Lofoten.

You shouldn’t miss the nearby Maren Anna Restaurant, a popular local restaurant located on the waterfront serving fresh seafood and overlooking a picturesque bay!

Henningsvaer, Lofoten

The picturesque town of Henningsvær is one of Lofoten’s main towns. The Instagrammers among you will know it for its stunning football stadium – but it’s also a popular destination for rock climbing and fishing. It’s the perfect place to spend a few days (or make it your base for your entire stay). Be sure to grab a coffee and lunch at the adorable Klatrekafeen (climbers’ café) on the waterfront, and wander around the village shopping for local yarns, Norwegian sweaters, ceramics and other design items. You might also want to check out the Lofoten Gallery.

Trails in Lofoten

While our hikes in Bodø were relatively easy, the hikes we decided to do in Lofoten were a bit more physically and mentally demanding! But luck favors the bold as they say, and anyone who puts in the effort (and like me, steps out of their comfort zone!), will be rewarded with the most stunning views – even if your legs are shaking! Here are two great mountain hikes I’ve been on.

Tenstegen

This trail starts just behind Planet Base Camp in Sørvågen. An unmarked trail of moderate level, you should allow at least 4 hours, if not more. The trail takes you past stunning waterfalls and a natural reservoir before leading you up the mountain. Although it is relatively easy to navigate, in some parts you will need to use fixed ropes and chains, and the hills and ridges have very steep inclines (oh my!). The view from the top is breathtaking!

Make sure you carry some “lefse” (Norwegian flatbread with cinnamon) to keep your energy levels up!

Volandstende

Our second hike was up Vollandstede, the pointed pyramid waterfall we see above. But before you start, there’s one thing you need to do – a well-kept local secret. There are two bridges on the side of the mountain. After the second one, you’ll find By the Way, a slow food truck that serves the best fish and chips I’ve ever had (and I’m British!). The owner was a chef at a very popular restaurant before he went into the slow food industry. It’s the perfect way to prepare yourself for the hike ahead!

The Volandstind trail is considered easy to moderate. The trail is easy to follow, and passes a shelter with a fire pit and a small library! The climb to the summit turns into rocky terrain and a bit of climbing before leveling out at the top (although quite steep on both sides). The hike takes about 2-3 hours and the views from the summit look out over the mountains, fjords and beaches below! On the day we climbed, a “good” sea mist had covered the hills in a white dust!

Midnight Sun Kayak

One of the highlights of our trip was a three-hour midnight kayaking trip with Saga Adventures. The kayaking took us around the beautiful Rainfjord, past fishermen’s huts balancing on stilts above the water’s edge, towering mountains plunging into the fjord and under bridges. Killer whales have been known to enter this fjord – much to the delight of locals and tourists alike!

There are plenty of other adventures to enjoy in Lofoten if you have more time. Be sure to check out the Lofoten tourism page for more information.

I hope this post inspires you to explore this amazing part of the world one day. If so, please be sure to share your tips in the comments below! In the meantime, even though I’m no expert, just a visitor, I’d be happy to answer any questions you may have in the comments section below.

My legs may be shaking from the peaks, but the taste of fresh cod and the stunning scenery over the mountains and deep blue fjords will be something that will remain etched in my memory forever!

If you’d like to see more of my Scandinavian travel guides, check out this archive (this post will likely appear first, so scroll down!), and I’ve also created plenty of Scandinavian city guides too!

Next week we’re meeting up with our extended family for a week’s vacation – I usually take a two-week break from blogging in the summer, but this year the vacation has been split into two weeks – so I hope you don’t mind if I take a week off to relax with my family. I’ll be back here on Monday, August 12th.

Have a great week, and may the sun shine on you!

Nicky

All photos / Nikki Brantmark